A foodie guide to Hampstead Village

"Oh, I just call them and announce my arrival!" declared an exuberant Tel Avivian woman, cutting into my conversation with another Hampstead local at a friend's birthday party. We were in the garden of a stunning Victorian house, complaining about how difficult it was to get a table at Delicatessen, a truly authentic Middle Eastern bistro favoured by the local Jewish community.

By that time, I had been living in the neighbourhood for just over a year, more occupied with lamenting the lack of good local restaurants (after a couple of hit and miss) than actually investing time in discovering what those picturesque streets had to offer. The only thing I was genuinely happy about was the presence of Oddono, my go-to gelato spot from my delightful decade in South London.

The main takeaway from the many food conversations that night was that this charming NW3 peaceful haven seemed to effortlessly blend its rich heritage with a diverse and exciting dining scene. Leaving with a nice list of local favourite spots, I felt truly equipped to make my new neighbourhood feel like home.

Whilst the village has recently welcomed an influx of modern establishments like WatchHouse, Ottolenghi, and Ole & Steen, catering to the Londoners - often with their dogs in tow - who flock to the Heath on a sunny weekend morning, it’s when you start to really look around that less shiny but more exciting local gems magically appear.

As you leave the station, venture up to Heath street to grab a great coffee or matcha latte at Rose & Rose, a newly opened specialty coffee shop offering the most delicious pastries. Then head over for lunch at Heath Street Kitchen and get lost in the plethora of delicious dishes on offer, all emphasising locally sourced fresh produce. 

As you walk up and down Heath Street, it’s impossible not to smell the wood-fired pizza from Antica Pizzeria. Their authentic Napolitan pizza has been leaving all of us local Italians incredibly satisfied for years. And please, leave some room for dessert, their tiramisu is utterly delicious.

If you're in the mood for grab-and-go to savour while sitting in the Heath, pick up a pita filled with crunchy falafels from Delicatessen or a fresh bento box from Sushi Hana.

Fancy some drinks? Head to 28 Church Row for a glass of fine wine and some tapas or join the local crowds to one of the cosy, character-filled pubs. Among my personal favourites are The Old White Bear, The Duke of Hamilton, and The Wells Tavern. 

As the day unfolds, it’s time to start thinking about dinner. If you wish to experience some truly authentic Japanese food, try to secure a spot at Jin Kichi: here, the izakaya experience is as genuine as you can get in London. 

Otherwise, take a short walk down to Belsize Park for tasty dinner options ranging from authentic Indian cuisine at Hazara to an intimate dinner experience at Cinder. 

Cinder chef owner Jake Wood (formerly of Coya and The Ritz), has made trendy over-fire cooking more accessible, offering an unfussy menu featuring beautifully crafted dishes that cater to both meat lovers and those with more discerning palates (myself included). If you can’t find a table available, ask for availability at their St. John’s Wood outpost.

But before you leave the village, make a quick stop at Roni’s bakery to grab some of the best bagels in town (bear in mind they are usually sold out by 4 PM).

I think we can all agree on how wrong I was, Hampstead offers much more than gelato!

Words by Federica De Cillis