Lisboeta: a sweet reminder of how good Portuguese food can be
Walking into Lisboeta feels like stepping into a cosy, bustling eatery in the heart of Lisbon. Located on Charlotte Street, Lisboeta boasts a beautiful blue façade with a few al fresco tables outside, a quintessentially European touch that makes me momentarily forget I'm in London.
As you step in, a long bar with dark brown leather stools welcomes you, leading the eyes to the end of the corridor where the squared, bustling open kitchen seats. The restaurant offers several seating options, from the outdoor space and intimate window shelves to the bar seating, downstairs private room, and the beautifully designed dining room upstairs. A stunning blue balustrade staircase connects the two floors, and no matter where you sit, the lighting is top-notch, creating an intimate dining experience.
The Story
Food can be profoundly evocative and comforting. As an expat myself, I understand how the smells, flavours, and typical dishes can instantly remind us of home. Nuno Mendes, the multi-awarded Chef Patron of Lisboeta, has masterfully harnessed this power to bring a piece of Lisbon to London. Known for his innovative approach to Portuguese cuisine, Mendes has made a name for himself with successful ventures like Taberna do Mercado and the Michelin-starred Viajante. Lisboeta, however, is a deeply personal affair - a love letter from Mendes to the city he grew up in and the place he calls home.
The Food
Our first dish was the Cod Skin Crisp with melted onions and potatoes. As someone not particularly fond of cod, I approached this with hesitation. However, having recently trained my palate in Japan, I’ve learned to embrace new tastes - and I’m glad I did.
Next came the Smoked Carabineiros, deep-sea scarlet prawns with crispy garlic, chili, and lemon. This dish was a standout for me. Perhaps I am biased, being from Puglia, where the sight of a prawn’s head being squeezed brings a particular joy. Watching the less impressionable Mr. H engage in a similarly indulgent scarpetta confirmed that I was not alone in my delight.
Mr. H then tackled the Ibérico Pork Plumas: the meat was perfectly cooked, tender within, and charred on the outside.
Nuno’s Bacalhau à Brás was another moment that transported us back to Italy: here the confit cod is accompanied by caramelised onions, egg, and shoestring fries - those tiny fries, reminded us of the addictive San Carlo "sticky" crisps. Delicious!
We then shared the Crab Rice ‘Malandrinho,’ rice cooked in a rich crab sauce, and the Grilled Piri-Piri Halibut. While we generally prefer a denser risotto-style rice, the Malandrinho was delicately prepared and generously filled with crab meat - an increasingly rare sight in London these days due to shrinkflation. The halibut was impeccable: sweet, tender, and satisfying, complemented by a side of crispy kale. I truly wished I did not have to share this one.
