Tokyo: 9 Restaurants to have on your list in 2024

Tokyo’s dining scene is eclectic and expansive, ranging from tiny standing-only izakaya to more Michelin-starred establishments than any other city in the world.

My highlight of the day when in Tokyo is walking into one of these restaurants and feeling the curious, almost uncomfortable stares of Japanese patrons who seem puzzled by how I discovered the place, let alone managed to book a spot. It means I did my research right.

This is the list of restaurants you must try in 2024 to get a true sense of the city’s culinary offerings.


OMAKASE

Omakase, a term derived from the Japanese phrase meaning "I leave it up to you," is a dining experience where the chef curates and serves a bespoke tasting menu. This approach allows diners to relinquish control over their meal, trusting the chef to showcase the best seasonal ingredients and culinary skills. Each course is thoughtfully prepared and presented, often with a focus on freshness and craftsmanship. The omakase experience is designed to offer a personalised and intimate journey through the restaurant's specialties, creating a unique and memorable dining encounter for each guest.

Sushi Shinsuke

Chef Mizutani, inspired by a sushi chef in his hometown of Nagasaki, began his culinary journey at 19. After rigorous training in Tokyo and stints at renowned establishments like Tsubaki (Ginza) and Sushi Ginza Onodera (Hawaii), he expanded his skills in English, Japanese table manners, and hospitality.

Mizutani values customer, food, and staff relationships, aiming for a sushi restaurant where everyone contributes to a delightful atmosphere. His intimate eight-seat restaurant features a plain wood counter and stained glass ceiling. The Edo-sushi offered is crafted from high-quality, domestic ingredients continually blending tradition with innovation.

Why we recommend it: rare types of fish are offered, very high quality sushi, a chef that loves a banter with his clients and truly outs his hearth into making you feel at home. Very local feel (we were the only foreigners at that table). I have learnt a lot about Japan from the conversations we had while dining here. Tip: grabbing a seat here is hard, ask your hotel concierge to call them few weeks in advance.


Sushi M

Sushi M, located near the Nezu Museum in Omotesando Station, is a unique fusion of Edomae sushi and expert drink pairings. The "m" in its name stands for "mariage," the French word for pairing, reflecting the collaboration between sommelier Yoshinobu Kimura and sushi chef Michimasa Nakamura.

The pairing course is the highlight here, featuring sake, wine, and cocktails chosen from a 400-bottle wine cellar kept at 0 to -15°C. Guests are welcomed into a dining room with an L-shaped counter seating 12.

Why we recommend it: very high quality food, french infusion in some of the dishes, incredible wine pairing.

Sushi Gotoku

Tucked away in the serene Okushibu area, far from Shibuya's hustle and bustle, Sushi Gotoku is a renowned spot for its high quality rice, serving a changing monthly selection omakase menu. With only 6 seats available, this restaurant is very intimate.

The Chef is a qualified Fugu Master so the delicious and luxurious puffer fish is served here. A must try.

Why we recommend it: top quality fish, more traditional attire (the Chef is very focused during the meal), great value for money. Sake pairing is recommended.

Restaurant Kodama

Restaurant Kodama, nestled on the 2nd floor of a building in a Nishi Azabu alley, just a short walk from Roppongi's main street, offers a unique take on healthy Japanese cuisine. Owner Tsutomu Kodama blends traditional Japanese culinary techniques with a foundation in food culture and science to create dishes that prioritise health and authenticity.

Kodama's omakase menu avoids strong seasoning to highlight natural flavours, with standout dishes like the original Awabi (Abalone) Soba captivating food lovers. The restaurant's dishware, often custom-made by artists, complements the visually stunning presentation of each dish.

Why we recommend it: This was a stand out Kaiseki experience. On a Tuesday evening, we were the only guests and the experience felt as welcoming as entering someone's home. Relaxed, home-like atmosphere, low-built kitchen enabling you to watch as your food is being prepared.


IZAKAYA

A quintessentially Japanese establishment, blending the relaxed ambiance of a pub with the culinary offerings of a restaurant. These convivial spots are where locals unwind after a busy day, enjoying an array of small, shareable dishes paired with drinks such as sake, beer, and shochu. Unlike formal dining venues, izakayas are casual and welcoming, characterised by their bustling atmosphere, diverse menu, and the camaraderie of patrons. Whether tucked away in a quiet alley or standing prominently on a busy street, izakayas offer an authentic glimpse into the heart of Japanese social life and culinary tradition.

Arbre

Arbre is an Izakaya restaurant beloved by locals in Tokyo seeking a cosy, authentic dining experience. This intimate restaurant features six counter seats and a couple of 4-seater tables. Abre specialises in charcoal-grilled dishes and stands out as a true unique modern izakaya set in one of our favourite neighbourhoods in Tokyo, Yoyogi-Koen.

Why we recommend it: I tried every single dish on the menu, and can attest this is very high quality cooking. The vibe is similar to a “cave a vin” in Paris.

SG Low

SG Low is a a speakeasy-style izakaya located on the second floor of an unassuming building near Tower Records Shibuya. An unmarked wooden door surprises visitors when it opens into a cavernous space dominated by a theatrically lit bar. A nostalgic atmosphere in the background with soundtracks of ’90s hip-hop, house music, and Latin rhythms. The kitsch Japanese stickers on the wall evoke the graffiti-covered interior of Decibel, a famous punk-rock sake bar in New York’s East Village.

Why we recommend it: SG Low offers a fun and vibrant atmosphere with a speakeasy vibe. Traditional dishes are creatively reimagined in a modern style. The service is quick and casual, and the food is consistently excellent and satisfying.

Tora

Fresh beef and pork offal skewers are expertly grilled over binchotan charcoal at this modern izakaya-style motsuyaki restaurant in Shimokitazawa. The owner, formerly a chef at a renowned motsuyaki spot in Chofu, Tokyo, brings his expertise to grilling these skewers to perfection. A sake master and certified instructor, he offers an impressive selection of over 30 sake varieties, complemented by a diverse wine list.

Why we recommend it: Great sake and fantastic charcoal-grilled fare served in a relaxed, pleasant dining room, all for a very reasonable price.


RESTAURANTS

While Tokyo is renowned for its exceptional Japanese cuisine, the city's dining scene extends far beyond traditional fare. After indulging in a few days of classic Japanese dishes, you’ll find a refreshing array of dining experiences that offer a delightful departure. From inventive fusion concepts to restaurants that highlight local produce through the lens of their chefs' diverse heritages, Tokyo presents a vibrant culinary landscape where innovation and tradition intertwine. Explore these unique venues for a taste of the city's broader gastronomic offerings.

Massif

This restaurant, café, and bar within Ohashi Kaikan, is a creation of Terrain, the team behind Parklet Bakery in Nihonbashi (a must try for the croissants and bread offerings). Morning coffee and meals are overseen by Overview Coffee, featuring an array of enticing baked goods like croissants, cardamom buns, cookies, and sourdough loaves. For lunch, Massif offers a well priced pizza teishoku (set meal) including dashi soup, salad, sourdough pickles, pizza, and a choice of coffee or tea.

Why we recommend it: well made fusion cuisine blending Japanese culinary traditions and global influences, crafted under the guidance of Coleman Griffan, a celebrated Californian chef with Michelin-starred experience. The wine list is curated by a former sommelier from London’s acclaimed Noble Rot. Inventive dishes like charcoal-grilled mackerel with koji cream sauce and katsuobushi Caesar salad.

Locale

Nestled in Tokyo's Meguro ward, Locale champions a farm-to-table ethos by sourcing seasonal produce directly from small Japanese farmers and producers. The restaurant's diverse menu draws inspiration from Italian pasta-making, Moroccan spices, Korean fermentation, Mexican techniques, and French cuisine, all while embracing the owner and Chef’s Californian philosophy of knowing one's farmer.

Why we recommend it: wholesome dishes crafted from simple, organic, and fresh ingredients. It's my go-to spot when I'm craving vegetables. The restaurant exudes a distinctly local vibe.

Words and photos by Federica De Cillis

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