Lecce City Guide
Revered as the “Florence of the South,” Lecce has been drawing food, architecture and cultural travellers for centuries.
Its diverse, cosmopolitan character shines through in its exceptional dining and drinking options.
If Puglia is on your itinerary, make sure this gem is at the top of your list.
What to see
Lecce is a living museum of baroque artistry.
As you stroll through its historic centre, you'll be captivated by the elaborate facades of its churches and palaces. Start with the Basilica di Santa Croce, an exquisite example of Lecce’s baroque exuberance. Next, visit the Piazza del Duomo, where the grand Lecce Cathedral stands as a testament to the city’s architectural glory. The surrounding buildings, including the Bishop’s Palace and the Campanile, complete this picturesque square.
Lecce is not just about its historic and culinary offerings; it’s also about embracing the relaxed pace of southern Italian life. Find a spot at a local café, order a glass of local wine, and simply watch the world go by.
Cafés & Lunch
Lecce’s culinary scene is as rich and diverse as its history. Begin your day with a traditional pasticciotto, a delectable pastry filled with creamy custard. The most famous spot is Caffè Alvino, however service here is not as welcoming as in less famous café. I would personally recommend to grab your fresh pastry from Bar Cotognata Leccese an institution in town. If you are in the lookout for specialty coffee, a fresh brunch or juice, stop by café Al Ventuno.
For lunch, make your way to one of the city’s charming trattorias to enjoy a plate of orecchiette con cime di rapa, a local favourite. Head to the tiny old-fashioned Trattoria Le Zie, for unfussy, no-frills Cucina casereccia (home-cooked). Specialties include polpo in teglia (stewed octopus), baccalà al forno (baked salt cod), and the ubiquitous rustic purè di fave e cicoria (bean puree with wild chicory).
For a quick and satisfying bite, I highly recommend trying the Puccia, a traditional Puglian sandwich made with deliciously crispy bread and filled with a variety of local ingredients, from the shop L’ Angolino di via Matteotti.
Aperitivo
For Italians, aperitivo is a sacred daily ritual, a time to slow down and savour a fresh glass of white wine and the company of a friend or lover. It is deeply rooted in our culture, a moment to pause and appreciate the simple pleasures of life.
Lecce offers plenty of options for aperitivo, whether you are looking for drinks and small bites or a light pre-dinner cocktail. For the former, I recommend heading to Filotto or Tranquillo, where you can enjoy an array of fresh ham, cheese, and other small bites to accompany your drink. For the latter, head to Folia or Quanto Basta, both offering innovative cocktails in a beautiful setting.
Dinner
Lecce is the culinary heart of Puglia, blending time-honoured dining spots with a wave of innovative new restaurants. Each year, I make it a point to explore these newcomers while also revisiting the well-established favourites.
