Puglia: an insider’s itinerary
As someone hailing from Trani, near Bari, I can attest to the unique charm and beauty of Puglia.
This region is a true gem, rich in history, stunning landscapes, and warm, welcoming people.
Although it’s gradually gaining popularity, Puglia remains an unspoiled treasure, offering a genuine Italian experience away from the more tourist-trodden paths. The food here is exceptional—think fresh seafood, delicious olive oil, and exquisite local wines.
With its diverse offerings, from rolling hills and trulli houses in the Valle d'Itria to the breathtaking beaches of Salento, Puglia is a must-visit destination.
When to go
The best months to go are from the end of May to June and then September to December. Whilst March, April and beginning of May can be quite rainy.
The Valle d'Itria is perfect for exploring in spring, autumn, or winter, whereas Salento shines year-round. Salento makes an ideal summer holiday retreat. However, make sure to avoid July and August, as those are the busiest periods for the region. Visiting during these peak months often means hours wasted in traffic, overbooked restaurants, and crowded beaches.
Transports
Given the sprawling nature of the region and the limited public transport options, renting a car is essential to fully embrace Puglia’s offerings. You can either fly to Bari, the largest airport, or Brindisi. Bari offers more flights and connections, making it a perfect starting point for exploring the Valle d’Itria. Brindisi is ideal if you plan to head straight to Salento after you land. I often fly into Bari and depart from Brindisi, as Salento is always my final stop. Just ensure the car rental company allows this and check for any price differences, as it’s usually more expensive.
Itinerary
Here’s a comprehensive itinerary to help you make the most of your Pugliese adventure!
Day 1: Arrival in Bari and Matera
Land in Bari and set off straight for Matera. Although not technically in Puglia, Matera’s ancient charm is worth the detour. Known for its cave dwellings and rock-cut architecture, Matera feels like stepping back in time. Spend a night at the enchanting Sextantio, a unique hotel that transformed these historical caves into luxurious retreats. The rustic elegance and historical ambiance make it an unforgettable stay. For a Michelin dining experience, I highly recommend a romantic evening meal at Vitantonio Lombardo: the menu boasts creative dishes, alongside regionally inspired options reimagined with a modern flair, and offers a tasting menu with five to twelve courses featuring new and innovative recipes.
Whilst spending a night in Matera will give you the opportunity to see this picturesque valley at night, it is a small town which you can also visit in a couple of hours and then go straight to Bari!
Day 2-3: Bari, Monopoli and Trani (Valle d'Itria)
Drive to Bari and dive into its (very) lively atmosphere. Start with a stroll through the Bari Vecchia, the old town, with its narrow streets and vibrant markets. Don’t miss a visit to the Basilica di San Nicola, a significant pilgrimage site, and a walk in the Orecchiette street where women of all ages open the doors of their ground floor homes to show how they make fresh orecchiette. For a taste of local life, explore the Lungomare, Bari’s picturesque seafront promenade. If you have two nights in Bari, make the drive to Trani to wander through its historic centres and to enjoy a seaside meal. Trani is a stunning harbour city, renowned for its world-famous seaside cathedral, impressive castle, and a picturesque harbour that rivals Portofino's charm (pictured below). For an exceptional dining experience, Trani offers an array of options, but my absolute favourite is Casa Sgarra, a Michelin-starred restaurant run by three brothers who, after years of honing their craft around the world, returned home to create one of the most incredible restaurants Puglia has to offer.
Day 4: Polignano a Mare (Valle d'Itria)
Drive down to Polignano a Mare, a white town perched on cliffs overlooking the Adriatic Sea. Don’t forget to visit Lama Monachile, a stunning beach nestled between cliffs. For a quick lunch I recommend stopping by Pescaria, a very popular fresh fish street food shop famous for their octopus, rape and stracciatella panino. Delicious! And for a gelato or fresh granita, stop by Morea Gelatieri. If you plan to spend the evening here, a dinner at Meraviglioso Osteria Moderna is a must: while their lunch menu focuses on simple fresh fish or seafood dishes, the evening menu showcases more creativity and innovation with imaginative and inventive dishes.
Day 5: Alberobello, Martina Franca, and Locorotondo (Valle d'Itria)
Venture out to discover Alberobello, where the iconic trulli houses—charming, whitewashed stone cottages with conical roofs—create a fairy-tale setting. Here a quick lunch at Focacceria La Lira is highly recommended for the best focaccia and spinach and ricotta rustico. Next, immerse yourself in the baroque splendour of Martina Franca, renowned for its stunning architecture and vibrant street life. Conclude your exploration in Locorotondo, celebrated for its unique circular layout and breathtaking panoramic vistas that offer a perfect backdrop for memorable photos. These towns are quite small and close to each other so they can be easily visited on the same day.
Day 6: Ostuni
Make your way to Ostuni, the "White City," known for its whitewashed buildings and stunning hilltop views. Grab a coffee or brunch at Burro Cafe offering some of the most delicious pastries. For an aperitif with view, grab an outdoor table at Gabò. Complete the day with a delightful dinner at Osteria del tempo perso but make sure to call them in advance and reserve a table in their “cave restaurant” which is very popular amongst locals.
Day 7-12+: Salento Coast
Salento is a summer paradise with its beautiful beaches and crystal-clear waters. For a comfortable base, stay in Lecce, a city rich in baroque architecture and ideally situated for further exploration. Lecce also offers impressive options for cocktails and restaurants but let me stop there—this city deserves its own blog post!
From Lecce, you can take day trips to visit the following towns: Otranto, known for its impressive castle and historical significance, and Gallipoli Old Town, with its charming streets and historic sites.
In Gallipoli, I highly recommend stopping by Blanc Cafè or Palazzo Presta (Terrazza Laurus) for an aperitif to bask in the beauty of the sunset during golden hour.
In the summer, be sure to spend your days exploring Salento’s stunning beaches—trust me, it will be too hot to do anything else! Being based in Lecce, just in the middle of the South of Puglia, means that every morning you can check the sea condition and decide which coast to explore.
Beaches on the East coast:
Torre dell'Orso, famous for the “Le Due Sorelle” rock formations;
Baia dei Turchi, a serene and picturesque beach;
explore Santa Cesarea Terme for its thermal baths and stunning coastline, and finally, visit Castro for its beautiful seaside scenery and charming harbour.
The West coast boasts some of the most stunning beaches in Italy (this is my absolute favourite part to explore):
Punta Prosciutto, often referred to as the "Maldives of Salento," features long stretches of soft, white sand and turquoise waters. This unspoiled paradise is perfect for those seeking a more tranquil and natural beach experience;
Some stunning and less crowded beaches in the area of Porto Cesareo are: Torre Calimera, Spiaggia di Scianuli, Torre Squillace beach, and Spiaggia della Penisola della Strea.
Ugento Marina, this is my absolute favourite area in Puglia: no crowds and the most stunning beaches (think fine sand and clear, shallow waters). Torre Mozza, Lido Marini, Torre Suda, Posto Rosso, Pesculuse and the Baia dei diavoli are just a few of the many worth mentioning.
Santa Caterina, a charming coastal village with a beautiful beach, Santa Caterina offers a more intimate and serene beach experience. The rocky coastline and small sandy coves create a picturesque setting, perfect for those looking to escape the crowds. I usually spend a day or two at the modern beach club Frescura or at Salsedine Beach.
Insider’s tips
Be aware of Sundays crowds: on Sundays, the Puglesi love spending the entire day (and I mean the entire day, from 10 am to 7pm) tanning in one of the many public beaches. Hence they always get super crowded, no matter the time of the year! I recommend booking in advance one of the beach clubs above at least during the weekend to skip the crowds.
Grab some street food on the go: if you are in the Ugento area, for a perfect lunch break head to Gino for the best puccia. If you are spending the day in Porto Cesareo area, head to Latticini da Immacolata for the most fresh stracciatella, burrata and more!
Beach clubs
If you're looking for a lively beach club, Baia Verde, just south of Gallipoli, is the place to be.
Over the weekends in the summer months, beach clubs in this area invite DJs and start the aperitif around 4 PM with live music until sunset. My favourites are: Bahia, Togo, G Beach and Zeus. Always check out their websites in advance to see what’s coming. They can get quite crowded, so make sure to book your sun beds well in advance (1-2 weeks ideally).
If you are looking for a more relaxing beach club, with modern sun lounges, some music in the background but away from the party town of Gallipoli, then head to Frescura and Salsedine Beach.
Hotels
